Astypalaia: Mesa-Vathi, Exo-Vathi [Inside and Outside Vathi] (Part 6)

In order to reach Vathi, you shoud past Maltezana. You might rent a motorbike or catch the bus. Ask for information before you go, because only three families, about thirty goats and some other pets live in Mesa-Vathi. No electric power and the only telephone is on the boat that links Mesa and Exo Vathi; here you can find a large cultivable plain going downward the coast. In this side of the island a long and wide deserted, and vaguely bleak landscape, spreads before your eyes.

From time to time a soothing bleat of a sheep breaks the silence. Small white forsaken churches came out from the outline of the rocks and you can see just few houses. The wildness here is still untouched. Mesa-Vathi ends next to the sea and within few minutes of a boat trip you can reach Exo-Vathi.

Thrice a week a boat takes passengers on trip along the island. The electric power supplies the small and calm bay named Limin Vathiou because there is a restaurant, Galini (tranquillity), and a landlord. When the boat brings the excursionists, the restaurant is full up; twenty small tables lay on the veranda, are assaulted by tourists hungry of fresh fish and genuine wine.

Northern of Exo-Vathi there is a grotto, Drakospilia (drake’s grotto). This is the most exposed side to the wind and neither the inhabitants dare facing the waves and drafts because you surely risk to break against the rocks. If you want to visit Drakospilia on foot, get ready to walk fast for nearly three hours and don’t forget to wear suitable shoes.

Half way from Drakospilia to Exo-Vathi you can find a monastery, Panagia Thoma. There is no road. You will walk among stones, crushed rocks, thorny bushes and you will pass along rough enclosed fields, which stand for private property, where goats and – beware - bulls too room in.

Astypalaia: What you should visit: Livadi (Part 5)

It means ‘meadow’ and it is the ‘Lido’ of the island. It is situated on a pleasant site: on the coast , on the plain surrendered by the rises that protect it from the North-East wind.

Livadi is more modern than Chora - that’s why it has more structures and facilities. Nearly every family has a second home they rent to tourists.

They grow crops, fruit and various vegetables because large fields are available in Livadi. The houses are bigger and have more stores. There are two main paths that link the country to the smaller houses on the coast.

The promenade is about 200 meters long and runs through the beach and the row of houses, cafes, restaurant, pubs, drugstores that sell a bit of everything. The beach is under and along the rocks that lead to another smaller, but less crowded beach.

A church built on Byzantine foundations raises on the path. The church courtyard is covered by a now faded light blue mosaic reminding a marine style. The church is still open; on the wall there’s an icon covered by a golden leaf - it is of a recent handwork, but it has its own value.

It is quite astonishing for the visitor the fact that the icon can be easily detached from the wall; as a matter of facts, it is just hung by a nail, totally unlocked.